A step-by-step guide for Homeowners & Contractors Is your floor feeling uneven, bouncy, or no longer as solid underfoot as it used to be? You're not alone. Sagging floors are common in many homes—especially older ones—but the good news is, you can fix it yourself with the right tools and a bit of guidance. This step-by-step guide walks you through how to install the Adjustable FloorLock Bracing (AFB) System  safely and effectively. Whether you're new to DIY or a seasoned weekend warrior, you'll feel confident tackling this project. Step 1: Apply Temporary Support to Level the Floor If your floor shows significant sagging, it’s a good idea to install a temporary support beam  to bring it back to level before installing the FloorLock system. How to Install a Temporary Support Beam: Position a beam  (wood or steel) perpendicular to the floor joists  under the sagging area. Use adjustable jacks or timber posts  to gently raise the floor back into position. Note:  Be aware not to over raise the floor with the temporary support  when a kitchen or bathroom is above, to prevent damaging waterproofing and/or cabinetry. Why this matters:  Lifting the floor before installation gives the FloorLock system the best chance to hold and maintain structural tension. Step 2: Inspect and Reinforce End Joists Before fixing any AFB components, inspect the end joists  where loads transfer to the walls or supports. What to Check: Are the end joists structurally sound ? Will they withstand FloorLock’s tensioning ? Reinforcement Options: Install structural screws  to tie joists to end walls or supporting beams. Add metal straps  parallel to the FloorLock location—about 4 inches (100 mm) away—to distribute load and prevent shifting. Why this matters:  Reinforcing the end joists prevents deflection or failure under tension.   Step 3: Use the Template to Mark Mounting Bracket Positions Accuracy is key. A straight, aligned installation ensures optimal performance. Instructions: Use a chalk line or straightedge  to mark a reference line across the joists. Align the FloorLock template  with the line and mark bracket positions on both sides  of the joist. Repeat this step for all joists along the row. Notes: Template fits joists 6" to 14"  tall. For shorter joists (e.g., 8"), snap off excess template length along perforated lines. Stagger bracket placement  to allow rods to pass: Mount the top bracket on one side  of the template line. Mount the bottom bracket on the opposite side  of the line on the same joist. The top bracket should align opposite  the bottom bracket on the adjacent joist  to allow rods to crisscross. Why this matters:  Proper bracket alignment allows tension rods to pass without interference and ensures the bracing system functions as designed. Step 4: Fix Mounting Brackets to Joists With positions marked, install the brackets. Instructions: Mount the top bracket  on one side of the joist, then the bottom bracket  on the opposite side—mirroring this on the next joist. This creates a zig-zag pattern  of brackets across the joists. Why this matters:  This pattern keeps rods clear of each other while maximizing structural tension. Tools: Power drill Screws (as included/recommended in your FloorLock kit) Tips: Double-check alignment before securing. Use all provided screw holes for full holding strength. Step 5: Insert Tension Rods into Brackets Each rod is pre-fitted with a square housing unit. Pro Tip: Set each rod to ½ inch shorter than the joist gap  before inserting. This saves time and effort during placement. Installation: Insert the rounded end  of the rod into the oval opening  of the bracket. Follow either the X-cross  or pass-through  configuration as required for your layout. Step 6: Tension the AFB System This final step tightens the entire system to restore floor strength and minimize bounce or sag. Sequence: Start at the outermost joists . Work inward, finishing with the center joist . Tools: Manual ratchet wrench , or Power driver  (optional for faster work) Tighten each rod until it can no longer be turned by hand —this means the system is fully tensioned. Final Thoughts Fixing sagging floors may feel overwhelming—but with the Adjustable FloorLock Bracing System , it’s a totally achievable DIY project. By restoring structural integrity, you’re strengthening your home from the ground up. Key Takeaways: Use temporary supports for sagging areas. Reinforce end joists before applying tension. Use the template for accurate bracket positioning. Follow a proper tensioning sequence—outside to center. If you run into challenges or want peace of mind, feel free to contact us at FloorLock on hello@floorlock.com   or consult a licensed contractor. Ready to Roll Up Your Sleeves? Take it step by step, trust your instincts, and enjoy the satisfaction of strengthening your home— floor by floor . Need help? Contact FloorLock support on hello@floorlock.com 🎥  Video tutorials available on our website - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBOdPpfDjUE

When fixing a sagging or bouncy floor, a strong connection between the end joist  (the joist at the edge of your floor) and the outer wall  is essential.If this connection is weak or loose, your joists can’t properly transfer the load to the outer wall—which means your new Adjustable FloorLock Bracing (AFB) system won’t work at its best. Here’s how to check and strengthen this connection before you start your AFB installation. Why This Step Matters The end joist acts as a bridge between your floor joists and the load-bearing outer wall.Over time, nails can loosen, wood can shrink, or fasteners can corrode. This reduces the structural integrity and can make floors feel springy.By securing the end joist firmly, you ensure your bracing system has a solid foundation to work from. What You’ll Need Cordless drill or power driver Fixing screws  (or structural screws if replacing) Socket driver bit  (to match your screws) Safety glasses & gloves Torch or work light  (for crawl spaces/basements) Step-by-Step Instructions 1. Access the Area Get underneath the floor via a basement or crawl space. Use a good work light so you can clearly see the end joist and outer wall connection. 2. Inspect the Connection Check where the end joist meets the outer wall frame  or ledger board. Look for loose nails, gaps, rot, or corrosion on metal connectors. If you see rotting or damaged wood, replace it before proceeding. 3. Prepare the Surface Remove any old, loose nails or screws. Clear away dust, debris, or insulation blocking the joint. 4. Position the Joist If the end joist has sagged slightly, use a temporary prop or jack to bring it level with the other joists before fastening. 5. Secure with Screws Using your fixing screws  (high-strength structural screws), drive two screws per side  at a slight angle (toe-screwing) or directly through joist hangers if fitted. Screws should penetrate both the joist and the wall plate or ledger board. 6. Double-Check Alignment Ensure the end joist is flush against the wall plate—no gaps. Give the joist a firm push or tap to test for movement. 7. Repeat Along the End Joists You Intend Installing the AFB System To If your floor span is wide, the recommendation is one row of AFB every 6 to 7 feet. Secure each end joist connection along the outer wall frame to ensure even strength. Pro Tips Always use screws instead of nails  for this step—they hold better over time and resist pulling out under tension. Don’t overtighten screws to the point of splitting the timber. You’re Ready for the Next Step Once your end joists are firmly secured, you can move on to installing your Adjustable FloorLock Bracing System with confidence—knowing the load will transfer properly to the outer wall for maximum stability.

There are many reasons why your floor may start to sag, bounce and squeak. It pays to inspect under the floor, if you have access via a basement or crawlspace. Problems arising from excess moisture, damage from water leaks or pest activity may need to be addressed. More commonly, over time with dimensional lumber, the timber shrinks because of moisture or aging, which results in a floor that is bowing down or bowing up. Joists that are set at the maximum spanning distance for their weight, must support the extra weight. This stresses the floor joists, which is also a common contributing factor to why your floors may be sagging, bouncing and squeaking. Here are some check points to consider and investigate before you look for the best strategy to repair your floor. Check the Condition of Your Floor Common Causes of Sagging, Bouncing and Squeaking: ·       Aging joists:  Over time, wooden supports can bow or weaken and sag. ·       Inadequate support:  Joists may be spaced too far apart or are undersized. ·       Foundation settling:  Movement in the foundation can cause unevenness. ·       Moisture issues:  Excess humidity or water damage can lead to rot. ·       Poor past repairs:  Quick fixes may have made things worse. Use a straightedge, level, or laser level to identify dips and bows to determine how much reinforcement is needed. Methods to Reinforce the Joists Option 1: Sister the Joists This method involves attaching a new joist alongside the existing one to strengthen it. As you read below this can fix the issue but can be costly and time consuming. How to Sister a Joist: 1.    Cut a new joist to match the existing one. 2.    Apply construction adhesive to the side of the old joist. 3.    Clamp the new joist tightly in place. 4.    Secure with structural screws or carriage bolts. 5.    Use a jack, if needed, to gently lift the old joist level before attaching.   This can substantially increase the strength of floor. However, it can also: 1: Be a more costly exercise for materials. 2: Gaining access to subfloor space with structural timber/lumber may not be possible. 3: Getting a full length of new joist into its load bearing position besides existing joist maybe impossible.   Option 2: Add Blocking or Bridging If joists are spaced too far apart, blocking or bridging may help distribute weight more evenly. However, like sister joists this is time consuming and doesn’t always fix the problem, it can actually increase the amount of squeaks and unevenness of the floor For Blocking: 1.    Cut wood pieces to fit snugly between joists. 2.    Place them every 4–6 feet in straight line . 3.    Nail or screw in place, flush with joist edges. For Bridging: (sometimes referred as herringbone) 1.    Use 1x3 wood or metal bridging strips. 2.    Install diagonally in an X-pattern between joists. 3.    Fasten securely to minimize movement. Blocking and Bridging can be a good method but, in my experience, will not achieves desired result for all the effort and money spent with this solution. These methods are usually done at the time of original build.   Option 3: Add Extra Support if Needed If your floor has significant sagging, consider adding a beam and posts underneath for extra strength. How to Install a Support Beam: 1.    Raise beam into the desired position (wood or steel) perpendicular to the joists. 2.    Install new post to support the beam and floor above 3.    Anchor it with post supports and secure it to the foundation. This is especially helpful in older homes with long spans of unsupported flooring and is a great option, however this can also be; 1. Very costly  2. If the room below is a family room or kitchen, you don’t want a beam and posts to change the floor space. 3. Will need contractors to install correctly.   Option 4: The Adjustable FloorLock System The good news is that these common issues can easily be fixed without the expense of installing a steal beam under the sagging or bouncing floor space, yet the result is just as effective. And, if you’re a homeowner with a love for DIY, the Adjustable FloorLock Bracing (AFB) has got you covered. See our DIY Installation Video 🎥  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBOdPpfDjUE Or read our other Blog Posts, such as: ·      DIY Installation Guide ·      How to Create a Temporary Support ·      Securing End Joist to Outer Wall Frame

Uneven or sagging floors don’t just affect the look of your home and can lead to structural strain over time. Before installing the Adjustable FloorLock Bracing (AFB) System , if the floor has severe sagging, it’s important to ensure your floor is as level as possible. One effective way to do this is by creating a temporary support beam  under the joists to gently lift and hold the floor while you work. The good news is? This process can be done safely and effectively as a DIY project with the right preparation and patience. Below, we’ll walk you through the process step-by-step. Why Use a Temporary Support Beam? A temporary support beam allows you to: Gradually lift a sagging section of the floor. Reduce stress on existing joists. Hold the floor in the correct position while you brace it with the AFB system. Avoid sudden shifts or damage that can happen if you try to fix everything at once. Tools & Materials You’ll Need: Safety glasses & work gloves Tape measure Carpenter’s level or laser level Hydraulic bottle jack(s) or screw jack(s) Solid blocking (timber offcuts) for jack bases 8x2 or 6x2 solid timber beam (length depends on joist span) Adjustable steel posts (lally columns) or additional timber posts Drill & driver Lag screws or bolts (optional for extra stability) Step 1: Identify the Sagging Section Walk the floor slowly, feeling for low or bouncy spots. Use a carpenter’s level or laser level along the joists to see where the dip begins and ends. Mark the area on the subfloor above or directly on the joists below so you know exactly where to position the beam. Step 2: Clear the Work Area If you’re working in a crawl space or basement: Remove any obstacles directly beneath the sagging joists. Make sure there’s enough clearance to position your beam and jacks. Step 3: Cut and Position the Temporary Beam Measure the Span:  Your beam should run perpendicular to the joists, covering the full width of the sagging section. Select the Beam Size:  A solid, straight piece of 8x2 timber is ideal for heavy lifting, though a 6x2 can work for smaller spans. Position the Beam:  Place it under the joists so it makes full contact with them across the span. Step 4: Prepare the Jacking Points Place a thick block of timber (at least 12"x12") on the ground beneath where each jack will go—this spreads the load and prevents sinking. Position the hydraulic bottle jack or screw jack under the beam at each end. If the span is long, use an additional jack in the middle for even lifting. Step 5: Slowly Raise the Floor Lift Gradually:  Turn the jack handle just enough to apply slight upward pressure—about 1/8" to 1/4" at a time. Work in Stages:  Lift one jack slightly, then the other, alternating so the beam rises evenly. Avoid Overlifting:  Trying to force the floor level in one go can crack plaster, damage flooring, or strain joists. Spread the lifting process over several hours—or even days—for older homes. Step 6: Add Temporary Posts for Support Once the floor is at the desired height, place adjustable steel posts  (lally columns) or cut-to-size timber posts between the beam and the ground. Position them evenly along the beam (about every 4–6 feet). Tighten the posts so they fit snugly, keeping the floor at its new level. Step 7: Check Level and Prepare for AFB Installation Use your level to confirm the joists are straight and even. Make any final micro-adjustments with the jacks. Ensure the floor feels stable before you begin installing the Adjustable FloorLock Bracing System . Safety Tips: Always lift gradually to prevent sudden structural shifts. Never work under a jacked-up floor without temporary posts in place. For large or complex sags, consult a structural engineer before lifting. Final Thoughts Installing the AFB system on a level floor ensures it works at maximum efficiency—preventing future sagging and adding decades to your floor’s stability. By creating a temporary support beam first, you give yourself a safe, solid starting point for the bracing process. Take it slow, check your work often, and you’ll be rewarded with a floor that feels firm, level, and built to last.